Tilcara: Purmamarca y las Salinas Grandes

Tilcara

* Great town that is 30 minutes from Purmamarca and 1.5 hours from Salinas Grandes (the salt flats) but better to stay in than Purmamarca because there is more going on and it is less expensive

* Hotel recommendations:

-- La Posada del Rio (Av. Costanera 625 y Rivadavia) Tel: (0388) 155 245829, www.tamayu.com.ar

>> This posada is quite expensive ($250/night), but we made a deal with him so that we only paid $140/night (per room), the rooms hold 2-3 people because they have one big bed and one little bed.  He gave us a bunch of his business cards and told us to tell all of our friends about it, so he might give you a similar deal because it will still be off season.  Comes with breakfast and is the most beautiful place I’ve ever stayed!

-- Hostel Malka (San Martín) – Ask someone where it is, they will tell you.
>> Hostel Malka is part of the HI Club (Hostel International) so if you have that you can get a discount.  They are cabañas, or little cabins that you can stay in and are supposed to be very nice.  We were originally going to stay here, it is $50/person/night.  Reservation Desk closes at 10 pm, so make sure to get there before that.  Malka is at the top of a steep hill, so you will have to park your car at the bottom of the hill and walk up. 

* Food recommendations:

-- This town is notorious for nothing ever being open.  No restaurants typically open before 8 pm, and if they do they don’t serve food until 8 even if the rest of the restaurant is open. 

-- I don’t know the names of any of the places but I will refer to them using the numbers that I gave to you on the map – they are all very close to the plaza. These are all dinner:

-- 1: Restaurant (Yellow Interior): We didn’t get the luxury of eating here, but when my mom and sister came here they said it was fantastic and had great “balsamic reduction.” My sister is a little weird for describing it this way, but she knows her balsamic reduction so if it is open I would go there.

-- 2: Restaurant with weird paintings on the outside: This place was cheap and good.  I highly suggest the gnocchi Bolognese and the locro was also delicious.  If you are there on a weekend, order the $6 AR jugs of wine and sit back for some weird local music using long horns.  This will hopefully turn into a dance party, as it did for us.  This place is open earlier but they don’t start serving food until 8 pm.

>> Next door: Another restaurant with yellow interior that we ate at but it wasn’t anything special so I would not go there unless everything else is closed.

-- 3: Good restaurant: Down Belgrano street towards the smaller plaza there is a restaurant on the corner there is a good, but semi pricy restaurant.  There food is absolutely scrumptious, lamb shish kabobs and pork were delicious.  I also recommend their banana dessert.  If you are from Pennsylvania and you know where the Poconos are, you should talk to the bartender because he is from there.

-- 4: Wine Bar/Beer Place: Down Rivadavia street going towards the corner of Rivadavia and Jujuy on the other side of the plaza is a very nice bar.  They only serve wine or beer, they don’t even give you a menu you just tell him what you want.  I would order a bottle if you can because each class is $9 AR, but if not it is still worth it because they give you the most amazing goat cheese of your life.  If for some reason he doesn’t you should order it or ask for it and he will probably give it to you.  The owner is a very nice hipster with hipster glasses.

* Other food recommendations:

-- (See map) If you drive/walk down Belgrano street (the main road) you will find a place on the right that has a bunch of little artisan shops and a restaurant with umbrellas on their patio.  This restaurant has great coffee and good breakfast/food.  Across the street is a GRIDO (ice cream place mentioned under Salta information) as well as their partner “restaurant” which is really just a stand with a grill and lots of cheap options for food.  They are said to have good choripan but they were out of it when we were there. 

* Things to do:

There is a lot to do in Tilcara. Go to the tourist office (on Belgrano street near the umbrellas) and ask for a map, they are free.

-- Salinas Grandes (salt flats):  Salinas Grandes are 126 km from Purmamarca, which is about half hour form Tilcara, so the whole trip is about 1.5 – 2 hours to get there because the roads are pretty windy.  Take Rt. 9 S to Purmamarca and then take Rt. 54 to Salinas Grandes. 

-- Purmamarca (town): Definitely stop in Purmamarca on your way BACK from Salinas Grandes because the 7 colored hill (which you can see from the road on your way into the town) is really beautiful at that hour.  Also, they have a really nice artisan market where you can buy cheap but awesome alpaca sweaters, socks and other lovely goods. 

>> Apparently there are also some hiking trips you can do in Purmamarca, one is refereed to as Paseo de los Colores.  Ask about this at the tourist office in Tilcara/Purmamarca.

-- Gargante del Diablo hike: Some people will say that you should walk from town all the way to the top of the mountain, but I would highly discourage this even if you like to walk.  It is really dusty and takes about 3 hours to the top.  And then you have to walk down.  We drove our car to the top and then just hiked the waterfall.  If you have been to Iguazu you won’t be impressed but it is a nice little walk.  When you get there the guy will charge you $10 AR each and will give you a map to follow which doesn’t make any sense whatsoever. He is also weird, just ignore him and you will find your way. 

-- Laguna de los Pozuelos: This is something that I wish we had time to do, but is supposed to be beautiful.  It is a lake that has flamingos in it and is supposed to be very beautiful.  It lies 133 km from Tilcara.  To get there you have to go North on Rt. 9 until you reach Abra Pampa and then you take Rt. 7 for 50 km more until you reach it.  Ask at the tourist office for a map. 

On your way to Tilcara or on your way back to Salta:

-- Termas de Reyes (hot springs):  You will see signs in between S.S. de Jujuy and Purmamarca for Termas de Reyes which are the hot springs of the area.  We didn’t get to go to these but I heard they are really nice and beautiful.  Do a little more research about them if you are seriously interested though. 

-- S.S. de Jujuy: Capital of Jujuy, which is probably the dirtiest most disgusting town I’ve ever been to.  I would recommend NOT driving through town, but if you are hungry you should stop near the bus station (which will also take you through the town so that you can get back onto the highway.)  They have delicious, cheap food/sandwiches for your traveling hunger.